< Previous10 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 I ’m not proud when I think about my first trip abroad. I confess to being an annoyingly mopey teenager — my mother preferred the word “ungrateful” and said it to all our fellow travelers. A ruddy Dutch dairy farmer and his artist wife nod- ded and beamed with comprehension at my mother’s description of me — apparently spoken in a language uni- versal among parents — as our train snaked out of Utrecht Centraal railway station. In my weak defense, I was pining for all I had left behind in Texas — my boyfriend, more keenly my blow dryer and mostly the food. I missed Frito pie, Dr Pepper, barbecue, Tex-Mex and Whataburger — all the standards, of course. I still can see my mother rolling her eyes when I insist- ed on going into a Wendy’s in Munich. The fast-food chain was never my go-to back home, but I was seeking fa- miliarity in a strange land. I was disappointed by the watery tomato sauce the fast- food restaurant tried to pass off as chili. In attempt to comfort me, my mother told a story about learning she and my father would be moving to a U.S. Air Force base near Seville, Spain. She was an 18-year-old bride who knew little of the world beyond her Austin home. She imagined endless enchiladas and tamales. She learned shared language didn’t necessarily mean common food. She learned to love paella and traditional potato-heavy Spanish omelets, and not to cry when fish was served whole. She grew into an adventurous traveler and diner. Her les- son to me that day on the train was to stop being a rube. I learned to love European food. How could I not prefer artisan cheese and bread to Kraft singles and doughy Won- der Bread, except with barbecue, of course? I developed a lifelong love of café au lait, French, Swiss and Belgian chocolate, and graduated to more sophisticated meals in my foreign travels. The best potato salad I ever ate was a vinegary creation I found backpacking through the old town of Heidelberg, Germany. Not surprising, really. It might have been the great-grandmother of Texas versions. And Houston, where I grew up, is a culinary wonderland, of course. I recall my parents’ side-eyed warnings as the sibs and I snickered about the “pu-pu” platter on menus at hole- in-the wall Chinese eateries. Later in college, a new, improved boyfriend — soon husband — and I haunted Van Loc — where I got hooked on strong pour-over coffee sweetened with Eagle Brand con- densed milk — and Kim Son and Niko Niko’s and Khyber North Indian Grill and Thai Cottage — and the list, like the road, goes on and on. Then one day, there I was, perfectly at home, eating Ethio- pian food with neither fork nor spoon. But travel as we will, food and cultural identity are inter- twined and a taste of home, way back home, no matter how plain, can cure homesick- ness no matter who or where you are. In this issue, we celebrate the many cultural takes on coastal cuisine and an explo- ration of flavors and styles for the epicurious. We also had the pleasure of spending the day with Bran- don Holmes, executive chef at Rainbow Lodge, a Houston restaurant known for its wild game cuisine. We are grateful to Galveston weekenders Jacqui Davie and Carrie Wehring who opened their gorgeous West End home to Holmes, the Coast Monthly crew and neighbors. In keeping with our global theme, Holmes prepared a three- course feast of Galveston seafood combining Cajun, French, Vietnamese and Italian flavors. We’re proud to share his recipes and more with you in this issue. In these pages you’ll also find foods that Texans crave while out of state. We wish you good travels and that you always find com- fort in a meal when away from home. 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Heck, I miss fresh seafood when I leave Galveston and Harris counties! Kathy Silva Garza Mexican food. Last September, went on a road trip and Mexican food is not the same. I sent the food back three times in Arkansas not understanding what we ordered versus what they served us. Laura Marie Diaz Tacquard Whataburgers! Leslie Fraley Good Tex-Mex; oysters on the half shell; brisket and sausage; kolaches and klobasneks. Carole Machol-Atler My mom’s (and now my sister’s) fried chicken and potato salad. No one in the world can make it like theirs. Karen Barbier everything! Mexican food mostly. Sandi Jerome Pevoto I miss my Mexican food. It’s the first place I want to go when we get home. Patti Roznovak Moon pies. Doug Hiser Tex-Mex food, yum. Susan Wilson Walker Mexican food and barbecue. Elizabeth Crowe First, why would you leave Texas? but if you did, tamales are not the same anywhere else. Kathy Whatley We have the best Tex-Mex. Cheese enchiladas is what I miss when traveling! Sara Hafer Hawkes Tex-Mex from The Original! Mary Ann Salch Murphy Great barbecue and Mexican food. Janice Hallisey When I lived in New Jersey, I could not get Tex-Mex (but found some fantastic Mexican restaurants), Cajun food or things like chick- en-fried steak. I was lucky to live at the shore, so fresh seafood wasn’t a problem. Marjorie Ilene Goodman Good seafood. Deanna Hepler Grissom Chicken-fried steak and Tex-Mex. Tiffany Hanson Heallen Good breakfast tacos. Jennifer Reese Dos equis beer. Mandy McRider pappasitos fajitas and queso. Jackie Austin Fried-stuffed avocado. Claudette Domingue Holder Cornbread, up north. Martha Myers Petit Oysters and crab. Charlie Tombrella Favorite restaurants! And fresh seafood! Maureen Patton It has to be said … H-e-b and Central Market. Not exactly specific foods, but ... Lindsay Canright Shrimp! Haven’t had it in over four months. Judy Peterson-Fowler I miss real homemade tamales. I have been in many other states to only hear a can opener sound when I ordered tamales! David Bowers There are two foods that Texas does as well or better than anywhere else: Tex-Mex and barbecue. For the most part, I’m disappointed when I go out to eat at those places in other states. Phil Newton Tex-Mex, specifically from bambú, Taquilos and Lupita’s. And, of course, Whataburger. Theresa Weyand Elliott Texans love their barbecue, Whataburger and, of course, Tex-Mex. FIL e p HOTO: TH e DAILY N e WSBET JENNINGS 2022-2025 Real Trends America’s Best Real Estate Pros in Galveston & Texas 281.773.3477 | bjennings@greenwoodking.com Chase Jennings, Associate RSPS | chasejennings@greenwoodking.com 13526 Windlass Circle | Laffite’s Cove Breathtaking Panoramic Views in Laffite’s Cove 13415 Jibstay Court SOLD PENDING14 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 FEATURE EPICUREAN EXPLORATION Eateries from French to Japanese serve up their cultural takes on seafood story by LAURA PENNINO A round here there’s no shortage of eateries that are well-equipped to accommodate seafood lovers for brunch, lunch, happy hour or dinner. Hungry humans hankering for a specific culinary cultural connection — whether it’s Cajun, Italian, Greek, Japanese, Thai, Mexican, South American or something else — have a smorgasbord of options. Here are just a few. (Above) The Lobster Risotto at Opus Bistro in League City features lobster meat, Cajun-blackened scallops and a 5-ounce lobster tail drizzled in a lemon cream sauce and served over a bed of creamy risotto. (Opposite) A grilled swordfish steak topped with a pair of Gulf Shrimp atop a bed of angel hair pasta from Riondo’s Ristorante in Galveston. COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 15 p HOTOS: STUA r T VILLANU e VA16 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 FEATURE FISH COMPANY TACO This family-friendly restaurant near the sea- wall in Galveston invites guests to experience a fusion of flavors. The Catch of the Day or Gulf Shrimp Tacos are served with Vietnam- ese, Korean, Cajun and other spices and sauc- es. The $6 until 6 p.m. happy hour includes a Smoked Fish Dip and Hot-Blooded Oysters. 1914 23rd St., Galveston GLORIA’S LATIN CUISINE Looking for Tex-Mex and Salvadoran-in- spired appetizers and entrées? Founded by Gloria Fuentes in 1986, Gloria’s has you cov- ered. The Fresh Blackened Red snapper is a fan favorite. Fresh, pan-seared blackened red snapper with shrimp is served with poblano rice and chipotle butter sauce. Shrimp fajitas and red snapper tacos also are popular. 700 Baybrook Mall, Houston KRITIKOS GRILL Known for its authentic Greek cuisine, Kritikos offers weekday lunch specials that include grilled fish with lemon butter sauce and rice pilaf and flat bread with Alfredo sauce, spinach, shrimp and mozzarella cheese. Both entrées are served with soup or salad. Saturday and Sunday brunch features Crab Cakes Benedict and Seafood Omelet, made with shrimp and crabmeat served with potatoes and pita bread. 4908 Seawall Blvd., Galveston MARIO’S SEAWALL ITALIAN & PIZZERIA This Galveston Restaurant Group eatery features many seafood superstars. A favor- ite is Cioppino, a tomato-based fisherman’s stew made with shrimp, fish, mussels, clams and Italian herbs topped with a lobster tail and served with grilled focaccia bread. Also on the menu: Lobster Fettuccine Alfredo; Seafood Mixed Grill featuring lightly breaded pan-seared shrimp and salmon topped with a spinach and crawfish Alfredo sauce served with angel hair pasta; and Texas Red Fish pan-seared and topped with shrimp, artichoke hearts, spinach and lemon butter served with angel hair pasta. 628 Seawall Blvd., Galveston p HOTOS: J e NNIF er re YNOLDS COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 17 MIRU SEAFOOD MiRu, which means “to see, look or watch” in Japanese, wants to change the idea of what seafood is and what it can be. “We’re trying not to be boring, but deli- cious and different,” General Manager David Zinn said. The top appetizer is the crab cake. Lobster pumpkin soup is a fall fan favorite. Other popular starters include Tuna Crispy Rice and Black Garlic Snapper Carpaccio. Two of many favorite entrées are the Curry Seafood Pot, which features cod, shrimp, black mus- sels, clams and sliced emperor mushrooms sautéed with red coconut curry sauce and garlic toast, and Seafood Fried Rice served in a steaming clay pot and featuring Tamaki Gold sushi rice, lobster butter, soy sauce, blue crab, shrimp and scallions. 2490 Gulf Freeway S., League City NAM THAI RESTAURANT Thai “seafoodies” will enjoy a huge selec- tion from which to choose: Crab Rangoon, Garlic Pepper Shrimp, Shrimp Bikini (shrimp prepared with the head and tail on, but with the body peeled, resembling a bikini), Steamed Red Snapper, the Chef’s Special Ginger Red Snapper, Pad Ped Seafood (spicy stir-fry); and Seafood Claypot. 501 Bradford Ave., Kemah OPUS BISTRO & STEAKHOUSE Within the South Shore Harbour Resort & Conference Center, Opus Bistro offers a ca- sual yet upscale dining experience featuring French and American dishes. Owner Charlie Felts credits Executive Chef C.J. Johnston with creating crowd-pleasers such as Co- quille St. Jacques, the restaurant’s version of a classic French delicacy with seared scallops, Gulf shrimp and duchess potatoes nestled in a creamy mushroom sauce and baked to perfection; Crab Salad; Redfish Étouffée, featuring Cajun-inspired black- ened Texas redfish, covered with creamy étouffée; and Lobster Risotto, starring lobster tail with Cajun-blackened scallops drizzled with lemon cream sauce served over a bed of creamy risotto. 2500 South Shore Blvd., League City p HOTOS: STUA r T VILLANU e VA (From top) Opus Bistro’s Coquille St. Jacques is the restaurant’s take on the classic French delicacy. It consists of seared scallops, Gulf Shrimp and duchess potatoes topped in a creamy mushroom sauce; Opus Bistro’s Crab Salad is a blend of sweet, succulent blue crab, avocado, mango, tomato and basil tossed in a zesty vinaigrette and served over mixed greens. (Opposite, from top) MiRu Seafood’s Alaskan halibut served with yuzu miso, lob- ster butter, black garlic soy, shrimp, scallops and Parmesan broccolini; MiRu Seafood’s stuffed redfish with shrimp.18 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 FEATURE RIONDO’S RISTORANTE Seafood Ravioli Pillows — stuffed with fresh fish and shrimp and topped with a Parmesan cream sauce, shrimp, cherry to- matoes and green onions — are the second best-selling item on the menu (lasagna is the top seller), general manager Christian Santini said. Also popular with patrons: fresh-caught Gulf fish, usually red snap- per, served grilled or blackened over angel hair pasta, topped with garlic lemon butter sauce. Spanish Mediterranean wine-corked octopus is another must for seafood lovers. Executive Chef Rico Caminos is the “magi- cian in the kitchen” who is an “amazing and passionate chef,” Santini said. 2328 Strand, Galveston RUDY & PACO RESTAURANT & BAR Nicaragua native Paco Vargas, his family and staff always aim to please, and their comprehensive lunch and dinner menus demonstrate just how much so. Seafood fans might consider Ceviche Corinto, Filete de Grouper, Filete de Pargo Elegante, Filete de Pargo Simpatico or Fish Tacos a la Paco. The Mahi Mahi Friday lunch special is accompa- nied by the chef’s special rice, vegetable of the day and a house or Caesar salad. 2028 Postoffice St., Galveston p HOTOS: J e NNIF er re YNOLDS p HOTO: STUA r T VILLANU e VA COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2025 19 SEÑOR TEQUILA Fish tacos made with fried, grilled or blackened tilapia are the top sellers, said Ray Fuentes, the primary owner of seawall eatery previously known as Mr. Taco Cantina. Other favorites? Ceviche, Campechana, Seafood Stuffed Jalapeños and Agua Chiles — lime-marinated shrimp punctuated with spicy sauce, cucumbers, red onions, serrano and habanero peppers — a dish that has been trending among patrons for the past several months, Fuentes said. Fuentes counts on the creativity and culinary skills of executive chef Edgardo Artica, a native of Honduras who grew up in Mexico, to keep his patrons coming back for more. 4112 Seawall Blvd., Galveston THE FANCY Billed as an American “fine-ish” din- ing establishment with a French twist that sources its ingredients from Texas suppli- ers, this restaurant is situated within Hotel Lucine. Saturday and Sunday brunch features Smoked Oyster Tartine, Shrimp Remou- lade and Deviled Eggs with blue crab. A standout on the lunch menu is the Tostada Campechana with Gulf shrimp, blue crab and avocado. Some Fancy dinner entrées include Blackened Redfish, Seared Snapper and Whole Roasted Gulf Catch. 1002 Seawall Blvd., Galveston YAMATO JAPANESE RESTAURANT Guests receive an extra serving of hospi- tality from the Lo family and Chef Arnold Davalos when they order dishes prepared with fresh local and imported seafood from Japan, New Zealand and Spain. The Crab Puff starter is a favorite, and the Hibachi Shrimp and Scallop Hibachi entrée is the “hands-down most popular seafood entrée,” Michael Lo said. Seasonal specials include the Chimichurri Trio (a cold appetizer with tuna, salmon and Hamachi) and the Galveston Roll (a crispy panko-fried oyster roll layered with avocado, spicy salmon and other ingredients), Steven Lo said. Anoth- er star on the menu? The Sumo Roll with bluefin tuna, salmon and other delectable Yamato ingredients. 2104 61st St., Galveston (From top) Yamato Sushi & Steakhouse in Galveston serves a variety of sushi from Bang Bang Tuna, clockwise from top, the Sumo Roll, assorted nigiri and sashimi, and the Chimichurri Trio; the shrimp and scallop hibachi entrée with fried rice is one of the popular dishes at Yamato. (Opposite, from top) The Cioppino at Riondo’s Ristorante in downtown Galveston features fresh fish, sea scallops, Gulf shrimp and mussels; the fish tacos and ceviche are top sellers at Señor Tequila in Galveston. p HOTOS: J e NNIF er re YNOLDSNext >