SEPTEMBER 2021 Heart & Soul LOCALS REFLECT ON FOOD, ANCESTRY AND THE JOY OF CREATING BELOVED DISHES PLUS » A SEASONAL GUIDE TO GULF SEAFOOD SEPTEMBER 2021 $7.99 COASTMONTHLY.COM 645485005999 DRINKING UP A STORM FABLED HURRICANE WILL BLOW YOUR SKIRTS UP A TASTE OF THE PAST BOOK SERVES UP MEMORIES OF LOST RESTAURANTSKELLY KELLEY | BROKER ASSOCIATE / CO-OWNER | RE/MAX LEADING EDGE 12718 Carlotta | Spanish Grant 13358-13380 Stewart Road | Laffites Cove 22802 Vida | Terramar 20727 E Sunset Bay Dr | Sunset Cove 822 Ramsar | Beachtown 23118 Fresca | Terramar 4225 Pirates Drive | Pirates Beach 281.794.9463 | KELLY@KELLYKELLEY.COM • KELLYKELLEY.COM/PROPERTY-SEARCH ASK ME ABOUT THE LOTS AT SWEETWATER COVE 12231 Hershey Beach| Hershey Beach 20719 E Sunset Bay Dr | Sunset Cove 9420 Seawall 1104-1105 Boulevard #1104 Ocean Grove Condominiums COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2021 3 1510 Marina Bay Dr., Bldg 124, Clear Lake Shores, Texas 77565 281.334.00064 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2021 SepTeMber 2021 | VOLUMe 14 | ISSUe 9 58 22 36 FEATURES 14 HEART AND SOUL Locals reflect on food, ancestry and the joy of creating beloved dishes 22 A TASTE OF THE PAST Authors comb through newspapers and family memories to publish book on Galveston’s black-owned restaurants 30 ‘LIQUID SOUL’ How a red beverage became a staple at African-American celebrations 92 IS THERE EVER TOO MUCH LOVE OR PIE? League City author and illustrator poses those questions in her latest children’s book 94 ‘A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE’ Actor and photographer Jason Lee captures the Galveston that is 102 IT’S FALL, Y’ALL No matter what the thermometer says, autumn hunting seasons are here 36 PRIME TIME Industry veterans reunite at restaurant serving Southern comfort 48 ‘A LOT OF PRIDE’ Family grove in Greece supplies olive oils to coastal Texas markets 58 WHEN DO WE EAT? There’s a time and a season to enjoy locally caught seafoodContact me with all your Real Estate needs. Jim Rosenfeld BROKER ASSOCIATE Circle of Excellence Award Winner Hall of Fame Member Texas Monthly Magazine Five Star Realtor 2012-2021 Trulia and Zillow Five Star Rating Certified SIRVA Relocation Specialist 713.854.1303 Jim.Rosenfeld@sir.com “My exceptional Galveston team is marketing premier properties from the beaches to the bay — from historic treasures to high-rise condos!” WE ARE YOUR REALTOR ® ! EVIA | 9 Porch Street 4 BR | 3.5 BA | +/- 3,942 SF Last list price $974,880 EVIA | 3 Broad Street 4 BR | 2.5 BA | +/- 2,024 SF Last list price $428,880 EVIA | 56 Island Passage 3 BR | 2.5 BA | +/- 2,179 SF Last list price $429,480 EAST END HISTORIC DISTRICT | 1412 Market Street Rare iconic home (ca. 1877) designed by renowned Victorian architect, Nicholas Clayton. Sparkling heated pool. Exquisite original finishes and millwork. Impressive 1/1 garage apartment. 3-4 BR | 2.5 BA | +/- 3,210 SF Offered at $724,880 MLS 36567614 EVIA Stellar new construction. Mesmerizing lake, golf course and West Bay vista sites. Gourmet island kitchens. Grand downstairs primary suites. Colossal screened porches. 1, 2 and 3 story plans. Priced from the $400’s GALVESTONIAN | 1401 East Beach Drive #400 Extraordinary beach front condo. Stunning ocean and harbor vistas from 5 expansive verandas. Exquisite finishes. Exceptional primary suite with dual baths. 4 BR | 4 BA | +/- 2,253 SF Offered at $874,880 MLS 98078394 Proudly marketing for over 15 years! SOLD SOLDSOLD SOLDSOLD SOLD EVIA | 82 Island Passage 3-4 BRS | 2.5 BA | +/- 2,301 SF Last list price $403,880 SILK STOCKING HISTORIC DIST. | 2327 Avenue K 5 BR | 3.5 BA | +/- 5,071 SF Last list price $898,880 DIAMOND BEACH | 10327 San Luis Pass Road, #711 4 BR | 3.5 BA | +/- 2,334 SF Last list price $924,880 SOLDNEW LISTINGSALE PENDING SOLD SOLD6 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2021 86 ON THE COVER Creole shrimp and grits prepared by Johnae Lynn Cotton, owner of Johnae’s Soulfood in Dickinson. Read more about Cotton on Page 14. Photo by Jennifer Reynolds DEPARTMENTS 42 DOWN THE HATCH No matter the exact mix, the fabled hurricane will blow your skirts up 52 DOWN HOME belgium-born seismologist finds comfort in meatball dish from home 64 TASTE OF TEXAS This blue crab quiche makes for a breezy coastal brunch 66 THE GALLEY This simple summer dish is light and satisfying 68 GAME ON It doesn’t take a lot of work or seasonings to make this snapper dish 70 DESSERT ISLAND Smooth and silky, this dessert is like an Italian love song 72 COUNTER CULTURE A downsized island kitchen means less work, more fun and laughter 78 HOMEPORT Inspired by island life, couple builds dream home and palapa in San Leon 42 86 GARDEN VARIETY Gardener uses native plants to create a haven for pollinators 108 HOOKED Nothing will float your boat like a new bay-fishing sled 112 PARTY PICS Find out who made the local party scene 120 SAVE THE DATE Area events to keep your calendar booked 122 SHUTTERBUGS readers share their coastal photos 788 COASTMONTHLY.COM | SepTeMber 2021 Ask for Admissions © Copyright: Coast Monthly is published by The Daily News. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without written permission of the publisher. editorial content does not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher of this magazine. editorial and advertising does not constitute advice but is considered informative. WEBSITE & SOCIAL MEDIA coastmonthly.com EDITOR Laura elder PUBLISHER Leonard Woolsey CREATIVE DIRECTOR/ DESIGN EDITOR Melissa rivera PHOTOGRAPHERS Jennifer reynolds Stuart Villanueva CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla peoples Joey Quiroga Capt. Nate Skinner CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alicia Cahill Shannon Caldwell barbara Canetti emma Collins Christina Mattison ebert John Wayne Ferguson Sue Mayfield Geiger Chris Gray Mark G Hanna phil Newton Capt. Nate Skinner Angela Wilson ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Maureen beans Catherine boudoin Jana Knoell John Nagy Kristi Neal Kristi Quigley Donna rhoades MAILING ADDRESS p.O. box 1838 Texas City, TX 77592 EDITORIAL 409.683.5248 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES 409.683.5202 STORY IDEAS editor@coastmonthly.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Send letters to editor@coast monthly.com. be sure to include your full name, city, state and phone number. Coast Monthly reserves the right to edit letters for clarity and length. SUBSCRIPTIONS 409.683.5201 ONLINE EDITOR Kevin M. CoxLaffites Cove & Pirates Cove Galveston, TX 3406 Binnacle Court | $799,995 13527 Windlass Circle | $1,085,000 5115 Avenue T | $1,950,000 13319 Binnacle Way | $899,000 Laffites Cove 281.773.3477 bjennings@greenwoodking.com BET JENNINGS Top Performing Realtor® in Houston & Galveston Specializing in the Pirates Neighborhoods: Laffite’s Cove, Pirates Cove, Pirates Beach & Pirates Beach West A long-time resident of Laffite’s Cove Director of Laffite’s Cove Board Pirates POA & UTMB Development Board GREENWOOD KING PROPERTIES a place to find your home Laffites Cove Laffites Cove Historical/GalvestonNext >